Sushi Yasu

"We couldn't believe it when people started calling and asking for reservations," said Yuki as she poured our green tea. "We were just a fish market with three chairs!"

Now, Sushi Yasu has 12 or so chairs. And every day, native Okinawan Yasuji Hirashiki travels to Hunts Point to choose the perfect fish for the occupants of these chairs. Last night, there were sweet dayboat scallops in my sushi deluxe.

(There wasn't any natto (fermented soybeans). "Natto?!" exclaimed Yasuji. "That would clear the place out! Natto to most Americans is like blue cheese to many Japanese." "I like natto and blue cheese!" I replied.)

There were plenty of other goodies. Toro, sea urchin, salmon roe, and for those who eschew raw fish, the "Yellowstone Roll" (tempura fish in spicy sauce). My companion and I were thrilled to have happened upon such an excellent sushi dinner on an unexpected street.

So, for those Forest Hillsers who mourn the loss of Mickey's, and Astorians who miss Shima and are willing to travel, here's a great Queens sushi option for you. (Just don't take my chair!)

Sushi Yasu: 71-45 Yellowstone Blvd., Forest Hills, (718) 544-0942.